Stephane Jego is a great chef. He cooks amazing basque food with a modern twist. But that night I wanted his classics. The simpler, bigger dishes that will never leave L’Ami Jean’s menu. It’s too much food, too heavy, too rich but it’s just so damn good. If you haven’t been, get there now for most decadent charcuterie plate, cote de boeuf and rice pudding in town, if not the world.

Sauteed girolles

The infamous cote de boeuf, provided by Hugo Desnoyer, the superstar butcher

The best riz au lait, if not dessert, in the world

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