a Spoiled Cochon

August 23, 2011

Chef Philippe Labbe, formerly of La Chevre d’Or in Eze in the south of France, once had 2 Michelin stars and was a prospect to get 3. He now moved to Paris to open the high-end restaurant of the newly opened Shangri-La hotel. And he wants 3 stars. NOW. The food was great, but not 3 stars worthy. A solid 2 stars, yeah, but nothing more. No emotion, except for the pork dish maybe, like you’re meant to expect to come out from a 3 Michelin star kitchen. And with the competition around him, especially in all the palaces, it’s going to be tough. But he is definitely aiming to get them soon. We’ll see what the Michelin man gives him next March. 2 for sure. 3? Maybe…

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August 23, 2011

Rino

I was excited to try Rino, and had high expectations due to all the praise the chef, who used to work at La Gazzetta, has been getting in the past months. The food, because it was lunch and July, was very simple, great but not what I was looking for for my last lunch in Europe for a long time. When you work in the area, it’s amazing to have such a place close by. But when it’s a destination, like it was for me, it’s a bit disappointing. I will go back soon, this time for dinner, and I’m sure I’ll be amazed by this young chef’s superb Italian cuisine.

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Filed under: Food Restaurants Paris Omnivore

August 23, 2011

L’Ami Jean (again)

Stephane Jego is a great chef. He cooks amazing basque food with a modern twist. But that night I wanted his classics. The simpler, bigger dishes that will never leave L’Ami Jean’s menu. It’s too much food, too heavy, too rich but it’s just so damn good. If you haven’t been, get there now for most decadent charcuterie plate, cote de boeuf and rice pudding in town, if not the world.

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Filed under: Food Restaurants Paris Omnivore

August 23, 2011

Le Dauphin

This is the second restaurant of Le Chateaubriand’s duo, Inaki and Fred. It’s a more simple version, but the creativity of Inaki and Laurent Cabut, his sous-chef definitely shines. It was a mixed crowd of locals and pilgrims, and everybody was happy to eat a full meal for 27 euros per head, when you can’t even buy a dessert for that price in some Michelin star places. I will go back for dinner though, as the food is a bit more sophisticated I heard.

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Filed under: Food Restaurants Paris

August 23, 2011

Vivant

I couldn’t wait to go there. I was really looking forward to meeting Pierre Jancou, the godfather of natural wines. The wine was good, the food as well. He is famous to be very product-driven, which is true, but the duck dish showed more than just a good duck, it was cooked to perfection and overall just a great dish. I also had the best burrata I ever tried in France. This restaurant - it is not a cave a manger like his former Racines or La Cremerie - is definitely a must go if you like natural wine and food.

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Filed under: Paris Food Restaurants

August 23, 2011

Frenchie wine bar + Frenchie (part 2)

Just landed back in Paris, and what better place to go than straight to Frenchie. We had a booking at 9:30 but wanted to check out their new wine bar, which wasn’t open last time I went. We basically had 2 dinners, and a LOT of wine. Food is always good there, always different and interesting combinations, and the atmosphere is great. One of my favourite Paris places, where I go every time I’m in town.

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Filed under: Food Restaurants Paris Omnivore

July 15, 2011

Frenchie (part 1)

Frenchie is one of my favorite places in Paris. I like it so much I went twice this summer. I happen to have a friend who manages to book anytime he feels like it, at this place where people fight for a reservation. Lucky me! I also can’t emphasize enough on how a good deal this is, with starter, main, cheese and dessert for 45 euros. Hard to beat for such a level of cooking and high quality produce. Some would say it’s a bit too full of Americans at the moment, but I guess that’s the ransom of success.

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Filed under: Food Restaurants Paris

July 13, 2011

Passage 53

Passage 53’s chef is Japanese and has worked a few years under Pascal Barbot, just like the guy who opened Quintessence in Tokyo. Hence the very Astrance looking dishes and even an hommage to Pascal with the madeleines at the end of the meal. Extremely precise cooking with the best produce Paris has to offer (Joel Thiebault’s vegetables, Hugo Desnoyer the superstar butcher’s meats), it now has 2 Michelin Stars and is one of the most coveted tables in town. It’s a very small room so call ahead to secure a seat, it is well worth it.

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Filed under: Food Paris Restaurants Michelin

December 14, 2010

Ferdi

This place has the best burger in Paris. It has 2 different kinds, the normal one “Mac Ferdi” and the double one “Mac Arthur” named after my friend who is there at least twice a week since 4 years. The restaurant has a great atmosphere, a dark room, a great crowd and was one of my favourite place back when I lived in Paris, and is still a must go every time I’m in town. There is a lot of good stuff besides that burger, with a South-American and Spanish inspired cuisine, and great cocktails including the famous Guarapita (passion fruit and cachaca) and very good mojitos. It’s hard to get a table, so book ahead or go on Saturdays when it opens, 1.15pm, as they don’t take bookings then.

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Filed under: Food Restaurants Paris

December 13, 2010

L’Astrance

What a dinner! I really believe the more you go the more you love it. It is the tenth birthday of the restaurant this year and Pascal is better than ever. He is so humble and modest it’s such a pleasure to chat with him at the end of a meal there. His love for food and cooking is so sincere! This meal was fantastic, with every dish being a star. And when you become sort of a regular (which I am not really as I leave a little bit far from rue Beethoven) or you show your passion for food to Christophe the manager or Alexandre the sommelier and you will have the best night. It is quite a reasonable price for that quality of food and the superb service you get. The wine list is great, with a lot of good picks smartly priced, and I would have a look at it before choosing “blindly” the wine pairing option if I were you. Anyway, it’s a must go, it will change your perception of what should be a 3 Michelin star restaurant. I will edit this post as soon as I get the dishes descriptions from Christophe Rohat, but for now, enjoy the pics!